×
2 781
Fashion Jobs
LEVI'S
Levi's Store, pt Sales & Merchandising Supervisor, Rideau Centre, Ottawa, on
CDI · Ottawa
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Agent - Willowbrook Mall Rack
CDI · Langley
NORDSTROM
Position Asset Protection Agent - Heartland Town Center Rack
CDI · Mississauga
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Security Ambassador - Deerfoot Meadows Rack
CDI · Calgary
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Security Ambassador - Ottawa Train Yards Rack
CDI · Ottawa
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Agent - Yorkdale
CDI · Toronto
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Security Ambassador - Eaton Centre
CDI · Toronto
ESTÉE LAUDER
le Labo Field Executive Sales Manager
CDI · Toronto
L'OREAL GROUP
Education Project Coordinator
CDI · Montréal
TJX CANADA
Loss Prevention Store Investigator
CDI · Calgary
LEVI'S
Levi's Sales And Merchandising Supervisor, Part-Time, Toronto Eaton Centre, Toronto, on-1
CDI · Toronto
L'OREAL GROUP
Business Consultant
CDI · Vancouver
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection Coordinator - Pacific Centre
CDI · Vancouver
ESTÉE LAUDER
Field Executive Training Manager- Tom Ford Beauty, Kilian Paris, Frederic Malle
CDI · Toronto
TJX CANADA
Learning & Development Manager, Business Relationships
CDI · Mississauga
TJX CANADA
Winter Term Finance Analyst cO-Op
CDI · Mississauga
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Agent - Sherway Gardens
CDI · Toronto
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection Coordinator - Yorkdale
CDI · Toronto
ADIDAS
Sales & Territory Marketing Manager
CDI · Calgary
ADIDAS
Senior Finance Manager, Accounting & Payables
CDI · Vaughan
NORDSTROM
Asset Protection - Agent - Deerfoot Meadows Rack
CDI · Calgary
WINNERS
Full-Time Jewelry Consultant, Winners & Homesense, Coquitlam
CDI · Coquitlam
Published
Jan 21, 2019
Reading time
3 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Celine: New wave, new order in Place de la Concorde

Published
Jan 21, 2019

Hedi Slimane climaxed the Paris menswear season with a powerful collection for Celine that opened up a new chapter in the designer’s cultural references – in this case, contemporary London.


Celine - Fall-Winter 2019 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula


Throughout his career, Slimane has referenced his self-imposed cultural exiles. First at Dior Homme, where his long sojourns in Berlin informed the techno touches and expressionist silhouette. And, subsequently at Saint Laurent, where his residence in Los Angeles led to a whole West Coast posh hippie revival. His latest move: an immersion in the British capital, whose influences rippled through this whole collection.
 
“I first went to London in May, when I realized I how much I was missing out on the creative scene there. I’d been aware of things, but that really opened my eyes and I started photographing. And, in the end, I went back for a couple of months,” revealed Slimane in his backstage.

Superficially, Slimane riffed on the whole new wave movement of the late Seventies, but very much on his on terms. Just like how he reinterpreted California counter culture style at YSL into a new global rocker attitude; so tonight he rejigged new wave with bigger A-line volumes, an updated silhouette and dazzling metallic finishes.
 
There was a predictable internet outpouring post-show crying that Slimane can only do Slimane. Those of us who actually lived through the new wave and no wave eras, who attended CBGB and the Mudd Club in their heyday, will know this is arid nonsense.
 
From the truncated, wide and turned-up pants and studded biker jackets with novel articulated elbows to the streaky animal print coats; couture-like saddle-stitched biker jackets and marvelously piped dressing gown for a dissolute dandy, everything was put through the mill by Hedi. Coming out with a contemporary twist – and the commercial polish that Slimane always manages to impart to his collections, whatever house he is designing for.
 
Even the legendary two-tone donkey jacket – worn by a model who looked about nine years old – was given a new twist with different proportions to the leather shoulders. His latest book-invitation featured not photographs but graphic two-tone black and white patterns.


Celine - Fall-Winter 2019 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula

 
Plus, no designer knows how to use light and dark more than Hedi: building a black box on the east side of Place de la Concorde, surrounded by concrete impact barriers done in black. One side had a massive window, so the background to the models was the entire illuminated Champs Elysées. The show began with a fantastic light sculpture – a giant ball of fluorescent lights – floating along the runway and then ended with an impassioned sax solo by James Chance. Recalling the halcyon days of my youth when I saw this no wave legend with his jazz band the Contortions in Danceteria. 
 
“I wanted to capture what’s happening today in music, and how it is changing. That’s why I asked James Chance to come and play,” said the notably relaxed Slimane. Unlike Chance, who was famed for violently confronting audience members at the end of his concerts. And, was still smoldering as he quit the runway this evening. 
 
"Do not go gentle into that dark night, old age should burn and rave at close of day," poet Dylan Thomas once famously wrote. No chance of that happening to either Hedi, or James.

Copyright © 2021 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.