Tod’s: All about Italian irony
Post-modernist fashion is on the rise at Tod’s, where creative director Walter Chiapponi played ironically with many of the house’s codes in an eye-catching display.
“It’s an ironic take on the Italian bourgeoise,” explained Chiapponi, as he walked around his showroom, patiently explaining multiple looks in a pre-show Zoom of the Fall/ Winter 2021 collection.
With the Milan season almost entirely devoted to video displays, Chiapponi delivered a gentlemanly tutorial on his newest ideas, which were all about stretching the DNA of the Italian fashion label.
Using bows and volumes, materials and fabrics in unexpected ways all the way to the orange felt invitation, as soft as a baby’s bottom.
Above all, Chiapponi showed he’s no slouch when it comes to playing with proportions – cutting leather trimmed trench coats so elaborately one could tie them up in knots below the waist; or deviating a classic CEO’s wife’s padded suede coat with an oversized peak collar.
Though his best moment were the futurist padded leather cocoon blousons in electric blue coats, or the padded nylon cabans, for the new downtown gal that Chiapponi is attracting.
Walter also played with the heart of the brand – its footwear, developing new two-tone moccasins; or jolting loafers with a new cone-shaped heel. Most notably, reinventing the signature piumino loafers with chunky heels and a hefty metal 'T'-logo buckle.
Nattily styled by Marie Chaix, this video had models marching up circular stairways; over terrazzo floors; and perching on classic modern furniture.
Appearing in drainpipe-neck leather jackets; or double-face shearling teddy-bear coats and blousons. The result: a hip new urban gal. A smart move for Tod’s whose Italian lifestyle concept had become too deeply rooted in quaint Tuscan villas and junior grand dames in old palazzos.
“Manipulated couture ideas of volume, and technical leather treatments. A funny and ironic approach. Women who remind me of cinematographic figures from Almodóvar or David Lynch,” explained the ever polite designer.
Make that Antonioni extras for the 21st century, with a sense of irony, of course.
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