Carlin Creative Trend Bureau: Milano fashion week - SS 2017
today Oct 3, 2016
The Milano paradox: softness and energy!
The Italian designers have imagined a season full of strong contrasts, flirting deliberately with the extremes. Refinement mixes with the outrageous, sobriety teams up with the too- much, and good and bad taste go cheerfully hand in hand … We remember in particular the wave of softness at a certain number of brands of which untill now it was not really in their books, while other Houses forced through, playing the style partiality untill overdoses.
Therefor a complex milanese season, which Carlin Creative Trend Bureau has decoded for you :
An ode to feminity where the wink to innocence becomes emancipated with a tad of casualness and juvenile freshness, the fake frivolous transparency reveals a decomplexed intimicy.
With his partner Silvia Fendi , creative manager of accessories, Karl Lagerfeld offers us another interpretation of the emblematic codes of the house, all in lightness with as always his singularity, a mix of sporty influences and a sweet romanticism, like girly with the touch of glitter on the lips.
Marco De Vincenzo the roman designer, always looking for experimentations, takes us to a retro romanticism, an Italian styled glamour fluidly underlined by ruffles and postcard styled iconography, landscape styled travel memories, one of the key-styles of the season.
Still in the carefree univers like Alice in Wonderland, the babydoll silhouette of the young italian Vivetta Ponti brand adds to transparency a small surreal and deliciously vintage touch.
The athletic leisure influence also inspires the Milanese designers with an activewear approach in which performance merges with sexyness and a fun colored outdoor.
We can rediscover Donatella’s signature , who this time updates a satiny sportswear with chic 80’s glamour, the windbreaker style dresses up tops and skirts in nylon/silk base with gather effects.
For MSGM like for Sportmax, the attitude stays more urban, between neo-blouse and parka, it favors a draw-string puffed volume, of dynamic lightness.
Freedom of expression
Mix and match, odd layerings , twisted looks, one explores new assemblies in multi-style variation.
A funny elegance , between irony and versatile humor, between sophistication and everyday , caracterizes the work of the duo Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez , those two passionate designers who enjoy to remove inhibitions of the dress.
More conventional, a sort of clash between an elsewhere with asian influences, a new look of layering sets
With this mix of styles of retro-sporty and eccentricity , touches of feathers and ornemantation , Muccia Prada stays loyal to her style, mixing up the stories in a joyfull mix & match of abstract prints.
« Obviously" clash
In a hell of a state, the fashion-week ends in a show off, opulence and exuberance put in scenery such narrative universes between phantasmagoria and hussar inspiration , the again revisited historical codes clash.
Maximalist in decorum, the coat of arms display, the sleeves overdimension and the super-baggy, grungy styled jeans dresses up with sequins.
Street poetry, a preppy 70’s silhouette with strange mixtures of maxi imaginary figurative prints and a gothic-clubbing T-shirt……
Ciao Milano & Bonjour Paris- last stage of this fashion marathon…….
By Claire Remy for Carlin Creative trend bureau
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